Grape

High and mighty

If you think that Cederberg has the highest vineyards in the Cape, think again. Once it was true, but, high they are, at over 1000 metres ("Vites Altae" as the bottle capsules proclaim) they're nothing like Daniel de Waal's vines at Mount Sutherland in the recently proclaimed Sutherland-Karoo District.

Here, at the foot of Sneeuberg, they have to grapple in winter with snow and in spring with frosts, at a height of 1500 metres above sea level (the coldness, giving a proper dormancy to the vines is a real plus, and rare in South Africa). A glance at the map of Wine of Origin Districts shows, too, how this is by far the most inland  of the Western Cape winegrowing areas - some 350km from the sea (Sutherland-Karoo is numbered 17 on the map). Summers are not exactly cool, though it looks that excesssive heat is avoided, with long clear days a plunging temperature at night - that's a factor that is often thought to be very important in producing fine quality wines form, for example, Spains's Ribera del Duero.

All very different from the coastal regions. And that's the point, says Daniel de Waal (whose home ground is Stellenbosch - at the family farm Uiterwyk and his own establishment nearby, now with the rather odd name Super Single Vineyards). "I believe the famous continental varieties of Europe will thrive here and make even better wines here than when they are planted at the coast." So he's planted, in a small experimental way as yet, pinot noir, tempranillo, nebbiolo and riesling, and it's going to be fascinating to see what comes of them.

But first planted was shiraz, and the first wine under the Mount Sutherland wine is the Syrah 2009, from totally organically-farmed vines established in 2005. The name is, I'd have thought, uncomfortably close to the Sutherland Shiraz from Thelema's Elgin outpost - is it not going to cause some confusion?

Anyway, here it is and immensely welcome - though I must say I am rather undecided in my opinion of it, despite having grappled with it over three successive days (so you can say I'm irresolute, or incompetent, but don't say I don't try hard).

The aromas are undoubtedly lovely - fresh and pure-fruited, and there's a similar honesty of varietal flavours to taste, neither too fruity nor obscured by too much oak. But I was disappointed in the bigness and richness of the wine, especially without their being enough concentration to support such exuberance. Decent tannic stucture, however, though a little drying on the finish.

At which point which I was hit by a definite bitterness - on botht the first and second days, though it had reduced to the merest hint on the third. I know from my own experience and from tasting with the same people a good deal that bitterness is something that is not consistently experienced, but I'm confident that it was a real factor on this wine. It's origins I can't be sure about - not wood, I don't think.

It was tempting to dismiss this as just another rather overblown shiraz, that might as well have come from Stellenbosch as from this exotic and very promising location. But my instinct persistently told me over three days that there is something special here - and I don't think my instinct was responding to the allure of knowing the wine's origins.

Mount Sutherland Syrah is selling for around R260, which I think is rather over-pricy for a not entirely convincing wine from such young vines. I would confidently bet, however, that with a little more vine maturity, and a little more experience in responding to the vineyard, that this label is going to be something very special. (And I can't wait to taste the other Mount Sutherland wines when they appear.) I suspect that earlier picking would do a lot to give the Syrah the elegance that is rather lacking in the 2009. I mean - do we really need to travel so far inland, and climb so high to end up with yet another lush, richly ripe wine at 14.5% alcohol?

- You can read more about the Mount Sutherland project, and see more photographs than the ones reproduced here, on the Super Single Vineyards website.

 

Re: High and mighty

I admittedly had a much quicker taste of the wine at a wine show, but remember getting some disappointing heat from high alcohol. Upon checking the label, I was disappointed to see the 14.5% alcohol - what's the point of trumpeting a cold area and then making your wine the same as everyone else that lacks imagination and application? Sure the age of the vines is a mitigating factor, but they had a chance to show that their terroir is capable of producing something really different and they didn't make the most of it. For R260 you can buy some of the best South African wines from decades old vineyards and proven track records. What's next, a 14% alcohol Riesling? Despite the early "setback" I'm still excited to see what they can produce over there in Sutherland. I really do wish them the best of luck, but if they keep on churning out expensive alcoholic monsters, my excitement will fade pretty fast.

Re: High and mighty

Im not sure abouthe alcohol debate. Firstly, wines from the Rhone do have ABV's of 14,5 and even more. Check out some Kiwi wines for the same.Just look around to find some examples. Secondly alltitude doesnt = lower alcohol does it? Take a look at the alchol levels on Argentina's Salta Provence's Bodega Colome's 15% ABV's.2400m to over 3000m above sea level in the Ande's. Is it not really about balance. Tasting a wine before looking at the label as opposed to looking for fault, read a 14,5% ABV, before tasting the wine?

Re: High and mighty

If I get prominent "heat" from alcohol on an unfortified wine, it means that the alcohol is - for me - not integrated. This sometimes happens in very young wines, but is mostly due to wine that's out of balance. Sure there are wines with high alcohol that are balanced, too - and some very good ones at that. More often than not though, I personally find these potently alcoholic wines less apealing and more difficult to match with food (more so if they also lack balance, which is quite common).

Altitude doesn't automatically ensure lower alcohol, but cooler climates (proximity to water, high altitudes, etc.) should - all other things being equal - produce phenolically ripe grapes at lower sugar levels than hotter areas, which would result in wines with more moderate alcohols. Even in warmer climates, astute winemakers are making wines with moderate alcohols. They are the exceptions. Inversely, there will always be people making wine with high ABV's from cooler areas. In fact, this will be more common as it is not only easier, but also seemingly fashionable. Add to this the fact that many (esp. the Argentinians) are making wine with a firm eye on the USA, the biggest wine market in the world and one notorious for its preference for very ripe wines, a-la Robert Parker.

I perfer tasting blind, but obviously didn't taste the Sutherland Syrah blind at the wine show. I did get the alcohol burn before checking the ABV, though (in fact, it was the reason I did). It's still early days and young vineyards over there, though, and I'm hoping that this cool area ultimately results in more than snow pictures and marketing talk about altitudes.

My hopes and expectations of this exciting new wine area are my own and many (likely most) people might prefer the big, riper style of wine in any case. That's okay: de gustibus non est disputandum!

Re: High and mighty

Great reply kwisp!  SO we are then in agreement that the winemakers can and should make wines that show sense of place,  not be fruit bombs and ultimately should  be wines with a sense of place. Oh yes, lets not be looking at the Parker influence either. Maybe the answer doesnt manifest itself as logical, in terms of economics but rather it should be having wine makers and owners who have a belief in where they are and what they should be striving towards! Pitty we are in a time of great difficulty for the local producer. Who is our master? Parker, Decanter,Speculator or SA consumers???

As to the effect of alltitude and climate, nothing has really changed over the past couple of hundred years,techniques remain the same, idea's not that much different to years gone by etc, maybe just our expectations might have moved a block or two due to.......???

Funny, I have heard that a certain local producer harvests into the 30's in Brix! What next.

Re: High and mighty

I think techniques have changed quite a bit (cultured yeasts, stainless steel tanks, etc. etc.) and I do think there's a place for creating commercial, fashionable wine. Understandably, economics sometimes do trump long term vision, but I just prefer the producers that make interesting stuff and at least try to coax a sense of place and some balance out of their grapes.

Re: High and mighty

Interesting discussion - thanks. By the way, Markus, alcohol levels like this are rare in the northern Rhone (though not as rare as they used to be) where shiraz/syrah is at home, as opposed to the grenache-based south. In fact I mentioned the alcohol only in the context of speaking of the lush ripeness of the wine - which is a character I object to even more than a mild alcoholic burn (which I didn't notice in this case) and one which yes, tends to obscure terroir. Certainly wasn't prejudging the wine - quite the opposite - though I think you'll find that more and more people ARE looking at alcohol levels before they decide to buy a bottle. Sometimes because they don't want to imbibe an unnecessary amount of alcohol, sometimes because the high alcohol tends to indicate a particular approach and style.

Re: High and mighty

Interesting comments, but blaming warmer climates for high alcohols is not always correct. A large part of sugar accumulation is determined by light intensity, and this is determined by lattitude or cloud cover or the absence thereof. This explains a lot of the low alcohols in the Northern parts of Europe. The further north, or south you go the less light intensity, and the less energy the plant is able to absorb. Cloud cover has a similar effect. A good example would be the Hunter in Australia, which is very hot region, but the wines generally have low alcohols due to the cloud cover. But these days the overiding influence on alcohol is fasion and consumer choice.

Re: High and mighty

Thanks Peter. Choice is, I agree, the dominant factor. Look for example at the comparatively moderate alcohol levels from the Swartland in the highly successful Mullineux wines (the current Syrah 14%, current white blend 13.5%; forthcoming syrahs are lower) and the even lower levels in the latest Lammershoeks. Kyle Zylch, who works with Daniel de Waal on the Mount Sutherland wines indicates to me that they are looking at earlier picking. This was, after all, the maiden vintage, from young vines. I remain confident that something special could happen in these vineyards.

Re: High and mighty

Compare these Swartland examples (and there are examples from other areas, too) to some 15% ABV red wine that came out of Constantia area recently, it's clear that viticultural and vinification practices are the main deciding factor in the style of wine that results from any area. But with human intervention being equal, temperature and sunlight/light intensity remains the big influencers on alcohol. While we're at it, let's not forget leafroll virus's influence on eventual alcohol. In the final analysis, the producing owners are responsible for the style.

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