After waxing lyrical about Cordoba Crescendo 2004 last time (and bitter about the fact that it’s no longer being made – that marvellous cab franc goes into a nice-enough rosé!), and fairly enthusiastic about a few Bordeaux of the same year, I thought I should continue the theme tonight. Well, I couldn’t find another 2004 (except some Bordeaux, but enough of them for now), but there was some Vergelegen Cabernet Sauvignon in my wine-cooler.
It’s emphatically and fruitily full of life, that’s for sure. Much richer and fuller than either the Bordeaux or Crescendo. I’m mightily impressed, if not in love (it’s just a bit too heavy and big for love). Blackcurrant intensity, firm tannins now a little assertively out of balance (let’s give it another few years to see if it all comes into harmony – I hope I have another bottle; there’s certainly one of Vergelegen V somewhere). Elegance – no, gorgeousness – yes. But don’t let anyone trying to sell you immature, raw wine in restaurants or anywhere else feed you the lie that good Cape cabernet doesn’t last a decade or more. It does, it does, it does; and some of it gains greatly in interest too.